Lycoming Engine Stand
The Origional Lycoming Rotisserie Engine Stand
(Remember, you saw it here first!)
How does one store a Lycoming aircraft engine so that it may be moved around the shop easily and
rotated occasionally to keep oil on the internal engine components?
Solution: Use this simple method to adapt a
Lycoming engine to a standard automotive engine stand.
I've had my engine mounted in this
manner for several years now and I've never had any problems. It's
nice to be able to rotate the engine every couple of weeks or so to keep oil
on the internal engine components.
My engine is an O320-D2J which, I believe, uses a
Dynafocal-1 mount. If your engine uses a Dynafocal-2 or Lord mount, you
may need to 'adjust' the dimensions of the engine stand parts accordingly.
Click on the thumbnails below for a larger image
and enjoy!
--Mike
Materials List
2 – 3 foot lengths of 3/8" threaded rod from Home Depot or Lowe's. $2.58 ea
1 – 4 foot length of 3/4" x 80 galvanized pipe from Home Depot or Lowe's. $7.78
8 – 3/8 x 16 nuts to fit the above threaded rod. $.08 ea
8 – standard dia. washers to fit the threaded rod. $.07 ea
4 – large (3/8" x 1 1/2" outside dia.) washers to fit the threaded rod. $.18 ea
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Here's a picture of the automotive engine
stand I started out with. Its capacity is 1250 pounds and was made by
Vanguard. It's at LEAST twenty-five years old and I don't know if
they're still available... but you should be able to find a similar
one. |
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Begin by cutting the 4' pipe into two 2'
lengths using a 90 degree cut. Next, cut each 2' pipe in half by using
a 30 degree cut in the center. A miter box and hacksaw work
fine for this. You should end-up with 4 pipes of equal length each with a 30
degree angle on one end and a 90 degree on the other as shown in this
picture. |
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Slip each of the four pipes over the weldments
of the engine stand head. The inside diameter of the pipe fit over the weldments of my engine stand PERFECTLY! |
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Cut (in half) both of the
threaded rods into two 18" lengths. You should end-up with four 18''
lengths of threaded rod. |
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Make a 30 deg. bend in each
piece of the threaded rod about 2 inches from one end. Leave the
opposite end of the rod straight. |
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Insert the bent end of the
threaded rod into each of the 4 Lycoming engine mount holes from the back
(accessory) side of the motor. |
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Install a small washer and nut on each of the
4 threaded rods as shown. |
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Install a large diameter washer onto each of
the 4 threaded rods from the accessory side as shown. |
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Another view of the large washer on the
threaded rod as it contacts the Lycoming motor mount flat from the accessory
side. |
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Position the engine in front of the engine
stand and insert each of the 4 threaded rods into the corresponding 4 pipes
of the engine stand. |
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Rotate each of the pipes so that the 30 degree
slant-cut matches the 30 degree angle of the Lycoming mounting points. |
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Position the arms of the engine stand so that
pipes run 'straight' into the back of the Lycoming engine as shown and lock
them down. |
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Install a washer and a nut on each of the
threaded rod ends where they exit the engine stand mounting arms.
Tighten the nuts until they are just 'snug'... there's no need to
tighten them beyond a few foot-pounds. |
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The finished product! |
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Engine stand with the Lycoming engine at 90
degrees. |
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Engine stand with the Lycoming engine at 180
degrees. |
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